Chefs Beto and Julian Rodarte are the newest members of the extended family here at Trinity Groves. And, as the name they’ve chosen for their restaurant shows, this father-and-son team is making family integral to the dining experience you can look forward to at Beto & Son.
Beto and Julian describe their menu as “elevated Mexican cuisine.” Specialties such as Mexican poutine — scratch-crafted masa fries covered with two kinds of cheese (queso blanco and queso fresco) and tomatillo sauce in place of Québecois gravy — the stuffed chile relleno noodle bowl, chimichurri waffle fries and braised lamb shank sound rarefied indeed. But Beto and Julian haven’t forgotten their roots.
Beto’s grandmother remains the primary source of inspiration for his creations. And you can taste the legacy of generations of Mexican cooks in the fire-roasted flavors that add a unique, sweet and smoky character to everything from Beto & Son’s guacamole to the stacked sour cream chicken tinga enchiladas. If the prospect of shredded chicken simmering in a rich tomato and chipotle sauce doesn’t sound comforting enough, there’s also the barbacoa sopes stack. Imagine a cross between a tostada and a chalupa: a soft and savory masa and potato “pancake” topped with the protein of your choice, fresh pico and pickled slaw.
This family focus even extends to the portions Beto and Julian bring to the table. The fajita platters can only be described as gigantic. Salads aren’t just salads. They’re towers to be scaled family-style. Larger parties can also order Chef Julian’s Taco Board. Let’s just hope the negotiations over who gets to sample which of the 10 tacos on this platter (two each of carne asada, al pastor, barbacoa, chicken tinga and beer-battered salmon) don’t aggravate any existing sibling rivalries or rekindle old quarrels.
Beto and Julian aren’t shy about operating on some old-school values. The bread on which they serve their tortas comes from the La Estrella Y Familia Panaderia just down the street. And the Rodartes use the freshest, locally sourced ingredients whenever possible. But they pair that respect for tradition with a willingness to innovate. There’s no better tribute to how Beto & Son is also “next gen” than the margaritas. Add a swirl of pureed prickly pear, test your endurance with the fireball (the heat comes from the house-prepared pepper-infused tequila and a garnish of candied serranos) or treat your inner mad scientist with a margarita frozen via a careful application of liquid nitrogen.
Beto & Son is now serving both lunch and dinner seven days a week. Make your reservation today!